|
|
Sitting on the Sangker River just south west of the
Tonle Sap Lake, Battambang town is at the heart of Cambodia's 'rice bowl', and even though it is the country's second biggest town, it still has a very local, untouristed, provincial atmosphere. Much of the architecture is French colonial and traditional Cambodian. Few buildings are over three stories, and the main streets are shared by cars and horse carts alike. Unlike more touristed towns, the local economy is truly local - based firmly in rice, wood, sapphires and food
crops - and is reflected in the character of the town. Similarly, as you leave Battambang by road, the scene quickly becomes one of small villages, rice paddies, and farmland, offering an excellent opportunity for the visitor to see a bit of 'unspoiled' rural Cambodia. The nearby countryside also harbors old
pagodas, Angkorian era ruins, caves, waterfalls, and even Khmer Rouge period killing fields.
Battambang means ‘disappearing stick’, and is named after a powerful
stick used by a legendary Khmer king to achieve and maintain power
in the Battambang area. |
Getting to Battambang
Air
At time of printing there are no flights to Battambang.
Siem Reap to Battambang
Boat
Daily ferry departs in each direction at
7:00am. $20-$25/person. It's a picturesque, 6-8 hour journey across
the Tonle Sap and along the Sangker River in the wet season, but can
be considerably longer in the dry season due to low water levels.
Ask about current conditions. The boats in no way meet international
safety standards. There is no direct boat from Phnom Penh.
Road
(National Routes #6 and #5, via
Sisophon): The road from Battambang to Siem Reap around the west
side of the lake is in excellent condition. The perennially broken
stretch between Siem Reap and Sisophon has been fully repaired.
Bus
Three bus companies (including Neak
Krorhorm, Phnom Penh Sorya and Rith Mony) run one or two daily a/c
buses, most leaving in the morning. Buy tickets at the bus company
office (see map.) $4-$5, 2˝-3 hours.
Taxi
A private taxi costs $35-$45 and takes
about 3 hours.
Phnom Penh to Battambang
Road
(291km, National Route #5): The road is paved and
in good condition.
Bus
Several bus companies (including
Phnom Penh Sorya, Neak
Krorhorm and
Capitol Tours)
run multiple daily buses between Phnom Penh to Battambang. First bus
departs at 6:30AM and the last at 3:00PM. Fare: 17,000R-20,000R. The
trip takes 5 hours. In Battambang, buses depart from the various
transportation company offices. See the
map.
Taxi
A private taxi is $35 - $45. Shared
taxi: 25,000R per person. 4 hours. Prices for shared local transport
are very nominal, but are also crowded and uncomfortable. Buy more
than one place for the extra leg room.
Getting Around Battambang
Like most of Cambodia, the choice is motorcycle taxi (motodup), rent
a car with driver, or rent a motorcycle. Your hotel can arrange a
car or motorcycle rental. Cars are about $20/day and motorcycle
rental runs $5-$8/day - a bit more expensive than other towns.
Motodups are plentiful during the day. Just step onto the street and
they will find you. They can be much more difficult to find at
night. A ride in town should range 500 to 1500 riel.
Battambang Hotels/Guesthouses
Au
Cabaret Vert
Range: $50
The Cabaret Vert is an eco-resort. You are welcome in
spacious bungalows around a natural swimming pool. Its restaurant
offers French cuisine (foie gras, andouillette, ...) but also the
Cambodian cooking (our speciality: fish amok). It is about an
ecological hotel where everything is made in the respect for the
nature: swimming pool without chlorine, air conditioning by
geothermal science, watering of the garden by rainwater. The team of
Cabaret Vert also proposes you visits of Battambang and its
countryside.
Tel: 053-6562000
www.aucabaretvert.com
Bambu Hotel
Range: $50-$85 (breakfast included)
New, fully outfitted and equipped
hotel/resort complex sporting well-appointed, traditionally inspired
rooms. All rooms with a/c/ CTV, DVD, stocked mini-bar, wifi, en
suite bathroom with hot/ water. Swimming pool and full restaurant
and bar serving Cambodian and international fare. Located in a quiet
area on the east side of the river only 2 minutes from town center.
Visa/MC/ANZ
Tel: +(855)(0)117-331368
pat@bambubattambang.com
www.bambubattambang.com
Bus Stop Guesthouse
Range: $10-$30
Clean, Australian managed guesthouse in
the center of town offering fan and a/c rooms with cable TV, en
suite bathroom. Lightning fast wifi internet access in the
restaurant and rooms. Western food. Tour services and expert travel
advice. Motorcycle rental. Free pick up service and free wifi.
Tel: +(855)(0)53-730544
E-mail:
info@busstopcambodia.com
Website: www.busstopcambodia.com
Khemara Battambang I Hotel
Range: $20 - $450
92 rooms. A/c rooms and suites with all
amenities: cable TV, fridge, en suite with hot water. Swimming pool.
Located in a quiet area. Large parking area. Karaoke rooms.
Conference rooms and banquet facilities. Gym, sauna, spa, steam. Free Wifi in rooms.
Restaurant.
Tel: +(855)(0)53-737878, +(855)(0)17-612168
Fax: +(855)(0)53-732626
E-mail: admin@khemerahotel.com
/ gm@khemarahotel.com
Website: www.khemarahotel.com
La Villa
Range: $60-$85
Nicely restored 1930s colonial house.
Seven rooms with a/c and fan, stylishly decorated with antiques and
Art Deco furniture. Western and Asian food and a wide selection of
cocktails served in the a/c restaurant or garden. Swimming pool.
Tel: +(855)(0)53-730751, +(855)(0)89-930151
E-mail: lavilla@online.com.kh
Website: www.lavilla-battambang.com
Park Hotel
Range: $5-$12
Overlooking a nice little park near the
entrance to town. Reasonably priced a/c and fan rooms with attached
bathroom, cable TV, hot water and fridge. Free pick up.
Tel: +(855)(0)53-953773,
+(855)(0)12-817170
park_hotelbtb@yahoo.com
Spring Park
Hotel
Range: $6-$35
Located near the New Iron Bridge at the
south end of town. A/c and fan rooms with all amenities including
IDD and Internet port. En suite bathroom. Conference room. Elevator.
Free Pick up. Boat, bus tickets available.
Tel: +(855)(0)12-849999
spparkhotel@yahoo.com
Rottanak
Resort
Range: $50-$65 (Breakfast included)
Secluded garden oasis of poolside
bungalows in a quiet corner of the main town area. All modern
amenities including a/c, CTV and en suite with hot water. Swimming
pool. Restaurant/cafe serving traditional Khmer food. Full bar.
Wifi.
Tel: +(855)(0)53-953255
info@rottanakresort.com
www.rottanakresort.com
Stung Sangke Hotel
Range: $40-$120
A leading hotel in Battambang with 130
rooms and suites. Walk only 5 minutes from ferry dock and a 10-15
minute walk to visit colonial architecture, the provincial hall,
Phsar Nat and historic pagodas.
Tel: +(855)(0)53-953495
Battambang Restaurants/Bars
Au Cabaret
Vert
On the menu: Traditional Cambodian dishes (with our specialty: fish amok!) and French
cuisine (delicious home-made foie gras, andouillette with mash
potatoes).
Without forgetting to mention the
daily
special !
New wines are selected each month to awaken new flavors over the
dishes.
Fine dining in a calm atmosphere !
The bar space
offers various cocktails, rums, teas and expresso to enjoy at the
counter or at the pool.
The Apple of
Love (Pomme d’amour)
Patrice cooks Khmer cuisine with a
French twist, sophisticated and creative. As the food is
exceptional, the cozy atmosphere is exquisite and the local staff a
delight. All the culinary delights are gathered in the Apple of Love
front the appetizer to the wine card offering all of the wines on
the planet.
The Bamboo Train Café and Bar
Welcoming local restaurant a wide selection of Cambodian dishes as
well as several western selections. Very nice Cambodian curries and
local salads such as Green Mango Salad and Banana Flower Salad.
Western breakfasts, burgers, pizzas and more. Full bar and pool
table. Open 7:00AM - 9:30PM. Tel: 012-517125
Bus Stop Guesthouse
The home of the Premiere League in Battambang. Crazy drink
promotions during Premiere League. All Games Live on the 42" Mega
Screen! Australian run sports bar and pub offering quality pub food
with all your favorites, from schnitzels to hamburgers, even bangers
and mash. Full English breakfasts a specialty. Icy cold beer and
full spirit menu. Rock n Roll music from the 50's to the 90's. No
hip hop! Expert travel advice. Open 6:30AM - Late.
www.busstopcambodia.com
The Bungalow Guesthouse Restaurant
Guesthouse restaurant and bar with an photo extensive menu of Khmer
and Thai dishes as well as some western food including burgers and
pizzas. Comfortable place. Good food. Some of the best coffee in
town.
www.thebungalow.us
Chinese Noodle Restaurant Inexpensive local restaurant Just a
few doors down from the White Rose. Very good fresh made noodles,
noodle soup, lots of Chinese dishes. Good place for a local
breakfast noodle soup (kuiteo) or fried meat and rice.
Fresh Eats NGO-based training
café and restaurant serving Khmer and western food. All-day western
breakfasts. Free wifi. Located on Street 2-1/2.
Khmer Delight Restaurant
Popular city center restaurant offering Asian/European traditional
and fusion cuisines – an interesting array of choices, including
such Khmer favorites as Lok Lak as well as dishes from Indonesia,
Italy, Australia and France. Excellent lasagna. Very generous
portions at very reasonable prices. Great value. Delicious
Battambang fruit shakes. Beer and wine.
La Villa The finest
western dining in Battambang. Excellent western and Asian food and a
wide range of cocktails served in an a/c restaurant or the garden
patio of a nicely restored 1930s colonial villa. Wine selection.
Western managed. Located on the river road on the east side of the
river. www.lavilla-battambang.com
Madison Corner
Friendly family atmosphere of Patrice
and his lovely Khmer wife Nary, where you can enjoy a drink, draft
beer, cocktail, home-made rum and a large variety of ice creams and
local snacks. Some of the best crepes in Cambodia. A Battambang
meeting place. 6AM-Midnight. Great place for breakfast an espresso
before catching the boat to Siem Reap.
Riverside Balcony The name says it. Very pleasant riverside
location. Western managed balcony bar and restaurant hovering over
the banks of a quiet stretch of the Sangker River. Beer, spirits and
good conversation. Burgers, pasta, enchiladas, specials on the
board.
Scoop
Late night bar and cafe at the Rottanak Resort specializing
in cocktails. Sports bar with big screen TV. Snacks and meals. One
of the last place in town to close for the night, often open till
2AM or later.
www.rottanakresort.com
White Rose Long popular with the NGO crowd, this small,
corner shop Cambodian restaurant offers an extensive menu, good
Cambodian food, ice cream, reasonable prices and ponderous service.
Street 2.. 6:30AM - 10PM.
Battambang: What to See
Battambang City is absolutely full of wonderful colonial-era
architecture and historic old pagodas, and the surrounding
countryside harbors not only Angkorian-era temple ruins and pagodas
but also offers some of the most picturesque rice paddy and village
scenery in the country. The new edition of Ray Zepp’s essential
guide to Battambang and the surrounding area, Around Battambang,
is available at tourist hotels and restaurants throughout Battambang
City. Zepp’s 164 page guide contains invaluable information on
Battambang’s historic pagodas, Angkorian era temple ruins,
surrounding countryside and local travel details. Highly recommended.
Bamboo Train
The bamboo train is a unique
and creative form of ad-hoc local transportation. It consists of a
small (perhaps 2.5m x 4m), motorcycle engine-powered bamboo cart
that rides the railroad rails picking up and dropping off
passengers, cargo, animals, motorcycles along the way. When it meets
on on-coming train or bamboo train, it can be disassembled and taken
off the rails in a minute or two, allowing the other to pass. When
touring the countryside ask your driver to take you to a rail
crossing where you can meet a bamboo train to take a ride.
Circus
The Phare Ponleu Selpak NGO
gives Cambodian children from poor and disabled families the
opportunity to “access culture via different artistic
activities” including music, drawing, drama, dance and
circus. Offering traditional Cambodian circus acts every
Thursday evening. Call 053-952424, 017-696371 for schedule
updates. Located on Route #5 about 1km west of town.
Website:
www.phareps.org
.
Cooking Classes
Nary Kitchen is offering twice
daily Cambodian cooking classes, morning and afternoon, taught by
Ms. Nary. The class is about 2-1/2 hours and includes a market trip,
preparing a single traditional Cambodian meal (recipe sheet
included) and then enjoying the fruits of your labor for lunch or
dinner. See map for location. Tel: 012-763950.
Countryside Tour
The rural countryside outside of Battambang is National Geographic picturesque. Within just a few kilometers of town the countryside turns into small villages filled with stilted houses and rice paddies that stretch to the horizon. You’ll see plenty of countryside on the way to any of the local sites. Check out some of the local products in the making - rice paper, noodles and the fishpaste market. It’s all very traditional if not a bit unhygienic and smelly,
but a interesting experience and adventure nonetheless. The roads are often rough and
during the dry season. always exceptionally dusty. Bring a good hat and a krama to cover your nose and mouth.
Ek Phnom
Ek Phnom
is an 11th century Angkorian-era ruin built as a Hindu temple under Suryavarman I. The temple consists of prasats on a platform with some carvings in pretty good condition. Wat Ek Phnom, a modern pagoda, sits next to the ruin. The river road drive to Ek Phnom from Battambang passes through
small villages and rice paddies and is an absolutely beautiful countryside
drive.
Phnom Banan
Phnom Banan
is a mountain top, 11th century Angkorian-era ruin consisting of five prasats. Peaceful location with a nice view of the area. Also L’Ang But Meas cave. Very old (150 years+) active pagoda at the base of the mountain.
Pagodas
Both Battambang town and the surrounding countryside are replete with pagodas, some of them very old and
highly respected. See Ray Zepp's book Around Battambang for complete information about visiting the local pagodas.
Phnom Sampeou Mountain
Phnom Sampeou Mountain, steeped in legend, and topped by Wat Sampeou and a group of caves used as ‘killing caves’ by the Khmer Rouge, containing the skeletal remains of their victims. The wat is unexceptional but the view is spectacular. Ask about the legend of Neang Rumsay Sok.
Provincial
Museum
The
Battambang Provincial Museum on the riverfront in the
center of town houses a large collection of Angkorian and
pre-Angkorian artifacts - statues, carvings, bits of ancient
temples, pottery, etc. One of the best provincial museums. Hours:
8AM-11AM/2PM-5PM, make reservations for weekend visit and they will
open the door for you. Admission: $1. Tel: 092-914688, 016-896727.
Shopping in Battambang
Phsar Nath in the center of town is the main phsar
(traditional market) and is geared to the locals, sporting the usual
variety of fruits, vegetables, meat, clothes, sundries, food stalls,
etc. Gem dealers, a couple of banks, photo shops and moneychangers
line the streets that ring the phsar. Phsar Leu, just south of town,
seems to be the place to buy the local specialties: oranges and
pomelos from Pursat province. The oranges are said to be the best
oranges in the country.
Chea Neang Drink Shop is a small convenience store on the
west side of Phsar Nath, popular with foreigners and offering ice
cream bars, cheeses, yogurt, wines, and other imported items.
The Smiling Sky Bookshop Second hand bookshop dealing in
English language books - Cambodia related titles, novels, popular
literature. Buy sell trade. On Road #2 near the White Rose.
Local goods Marble sculpture from Pursat province, woodcarvings from Battambang and sapphires from Pailin dominate the souvenir market in Battambang. Many of the hotels as well as the small souvenir/art/curios shops on Road #1 on the river in the center of town offer a selection of wood and marble products. The art shops have a better selection than the hotels and a couple have very interesting collections of curios, old trinkets, coins, antiques and oddities - well worth a look.
Cambodian sapphires and rubies mined in Pailin near the Thai border are brought to Battambang to be graded, cut and polished. There are some good deals on stones in Battambang but be very careful when buying. Fake and low quality jewel scams are common so you need to know gemology or know your gem dealer very well. Gem and gold dealers are located in the center of Psah Nath, in little shops surrounding the psah, and in a few shops on Road #1.
Internet/Phone in Battambang
There are Internet shops all over town. KCT Internet Cafés
has a shop next to the White Rose restaurant. Teo Hotel
also has a small Internet shop. Access is relatively fast and
stable. About $1.50/hour. Most internet shops offer very inexpensive
internet phone. Bus Stop Guesthouse has free wifi, probably
the fastest in town.
Banks in Battambang
Money
Like the rest of Cambodia, the Cambodian riel is the
official currency but the US Dollar is the de facto tender. Hotel
prices are set in dollars. Unique to Battambang and western
Cambodia, Thai baht is in common use as well.
Banks and ATMs
All banks encash travelers checks and change
money and most have ATMs. Canadia Bank, UCB and ANZ Royal
are located in front of Phsar Nath, all with ATMs. The ACLEDA
Bank on the east side of the river offers Western Union.
Moneychanger/goldsellers are concentrated around the market with a
few along Road #1.
Updated 09/10
|