If
you see only two temples, Angkor Wat and Bayon should be the ones. The
giant stone faces of Bayon have become one of the most recognizable
images connected to classic Khmer art and architecture. There are 37
standing towers, most but not all sporting four carved faces oriented
toward the cardinal points. Who the faces might represent is a matter of
debate but it has been argued it may be Loksvara, Mahayana Buddhism's
compassionate Bodhisattva, or perhaps a combination of Buddha and
Jayavarman VII. Bayon was the Jayavarman VII's state-temple and in many
ways represents the pinnacle of his massive building campaign. It
appears to be, and is to some degree, an architectural muddle, in part
because it was constructed in a somewhat piecemeal fashion for over a
century.
The best of Bayon are the bas-reliefs on the exterior walls of the lower
level and on the upper level where the stone faces reside. The
bas-reliefs on the southern wall contain real-life scenes from the
historical sea battle between the Khmer and the Cham. It is not clear
whether this represents the Cham invasion of 1177AD or a later battle in
which the Khmer were victorious. Even more interesting are extensive
carvings of unique and revealing scenes of everyday life that are
interspersed among the battle scenes, including market scenes,
cockfighting, chess games and childbirth. Also note the unfinished
carvings on other walls, likely indicating the death of Jayavarman VII
and the subsequent end of his building campaign. Some of the reliefs on
the inner walls were carved at a later date under the Hindu king
Jayavarman VIII. The surrounding tall jungle makes Bayon a bit dark and
flat for photographs near sunrise and sunset. |